Wednesday, March 28, 2012

"Hi, is it ok to turn your compost over to further aerate it?" Cathy

Hi Cathy,


In vermicomposting, you should have hundreds, thousands or millions of workers helping you aerate the compost itself!!! (If you don’t, the scraps you feeding them will become putrid because there are not enough earthworms to process the scraps)

The worms naturally dig/create holes and pockets of air within the compost keeping it healthy(please note that this is only in the top +/-2 inches of compost and this allows the beneficial micro-organisms in the bin to grow well, which in turn becomes part of the diet for the worms. The compost below becomes compacted
and hard for the worms to move through.

Do you need to further aerate it?

Yes, l believe you must do it at least once a week, even if the worm bin smells earthy, it is healthy. Keeping things the way they are will reduce stress on the worms and they will work happily.

However, if things smell bad and sour, (putrid/acidic) then it is possible it is going anaerobic. You will need to either take out the source of what is causing the problem or amend the feed to get it back to neutral, as l instruct in my Saturday demos to customers, as soon as it starts smelling sour/stinky take shredded paper, shredded cardboard or bleached grass cuttings and tuck it into the compost so that it absorbs the excess liquid that has turned acidic/putrid and will neutralize it (remember the shredded paper, shredded cardboard and bleached grass cuttings are the carbon to keep it in balance, you get nitrogen from all the vegetable matter – so if you do this it will keep it in balance).

If the conditions in the bin are not good, worms will try to escape. Add some cardboard or good carbon material (shredded paper, shredded cardboard or bleached grass cuttings) to keep pockets of air within the system and at the same time, give your wormery system an extra hand by giving it a good mix using your hands that will minimize harm to your worms. If you are an ‘eeka’ (squeamish) invest in a pair of washing up gloves (yellow ones) or if you are very squeamish cow birthing gloves and get stuck in and give your system a gentle mix, from the bottom to the top.

I hope that l have answered your question sufficiently, if not please have a look at the graph above as it will help you assess exactly what might be the problem with your system. If not, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Saturday, March 24, 2012

CARE & SYSTEM MAINTENANCE

Care & Worm System Maintenance

Placing your system where temperatures are regulated is very important. Most of the systems sold are not insulated against heat or cold, so depending on where you live, you need to find the ideal place for them to live. Please note that outside under a tree will only be a couple of degrees cooler. So if your house (is like mine and you live in the Natal Midlands, Pietermaritzburg/Durban areas) is North facing and you have a carport/garage opening on the South side of you house, it would be ideal to put them on the South side as it is cooler The ideal temperatures for Earthworms is between 5 and 25 degrees, anything above or below will make them go dormant. Please note that in winter it is the opposite, find a warm spot for them to live maybe on the north side of your home.

Feeding your system is very important as well. It is very hard to advise people how much to feed when l don’t know the size of their system or how many worms they have. The best advice l could give to anybody visiting my website is, start slowly, chop up and bruize the vegetable/fruit scraps. Please note that Earthworms are not catapilars who chomp on leaves, Earthworms process the liquid released from the scraps that are decomposing. Your Earthworm system is not a rubbish bin, it is a small eco-system and needs to be managed carefully by keeping it in balance. Please also see my feeding instructions.

There are various thoughts as to mixing your earthworm system, mine is as follows, gently mix the contents of your system at least once a week, if you don’t mix the compost it becomes compacted and the worms struggle to move through it. So, please mix the contents of your system.

Please visit my question and answer page should you need any further advice, or email me on lynne@worms4africa.co.za and l will advise accordingly.

WHAT IS BOKASHI

What is a Bokashi Bin/Bucket?

The Bokashi Bin/Bucket system is a practical and convenient alternative for transforming kitchen waste into a nutrient rich soil conditioner. This unique composting system uses the revolutionary EM (Effective Micro-Organism) Bokashi to create the ideal conditions for airtight (anaerobic) composting, eliminating the odours and unpleasantness associated with putrefaction and decaying organic matter. There are many different versions of this system, all of which use the same EM to biodegrade kitchen waste into incredible compost you can use in your gardens.

How do you use a Bokashi Bin?

If you wish to Bokashi successfully, you actually need TWO BINS. One to use immediately, and when full, to allow it to stand and decompose and use the liquid from, and a second one to use while the first one decomposes and makes juice.

The key to the success of this system is the specifically designed Bokashi Bin/Bucket, and the use of EM Bokashi. Bokashi is a Japanese term that means “fermented organic matter”. EM Bokashi is a pleasant smelling product made using a combination of sawdust and bran that has been infused with Effective Micro-organisms (EM).

Obviously, your Bokashi Bin/Bucket will come with set up instructions from the supplier. Follow those and then:

  • Place a 3-4 cm layer of organic waste on top of the grate in the bucket/bin before coating evenly with a layer of EM Bokashi. Use approximately one handful of EM Bokashi to every layer of waste.bokashiBucket
  • Use more EM Bokashi when adding high protein foods such as meat, fish, cheese and eggs. Press down to remove air after every application a spatula does a good job to compress the waste.
  • In order to reduce the oxygen and create the conditions for the anaerobic fermentation process to take place, ensure that the lid is closed tightly after each application. A plastic bag can be used on top of the waste to further reduce exposure to oxygen).
  • Repeat this layering process until the bucket is full, and top-up with a generous layer of EM Bokashi.
  • Once the bucket is full to capacity, let the contents ferment for a period of 10-14 days at room temperature, continuing to drain off the Bokashi Juice regularly. While this full bucket of waste is fermenting, begin the process again in your second bucket. Wash the Bokashi Bucket after each use.
  • Once the fermentation period is over, you will see that the food has been preserved and now has an appearance similar to pickles.
  • Now the waste can be buried.
  • If you have only one Bokashi Bucket the waste can be buried as soon as it is full, obviously the waste on the top has not had much or any chance to ferment, even so, the waste will still break down quickly because of the micro-organisms mixed in.
  • With two Bokashi Buckets the waste gets extra time to ferment, you will get more of the valuable Bokashi Juice and it is more convenient, however, this wonderful composting system will still work with just one Bokashi Bucket.

What can you put in your Bokashi Bin/Bucket?

You can compost almost every kitchen food waste including fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared foods, cooked and uncooked meats and fish, cheese, eggs, bread, coffee grinds, tea bags, wilted flowers and tissues. Do not include liquids such as milk and fruit juice, paper and plastic wrap, or meat bones.

How do I know when I should transfer the contents of my Bokashi Bin into the soil?

Bokashi Compost will look different to other compost that has decayed. As the food waste does not breakdown or decompose while it is in the bucket, much of its original physical property will remain and it will have a pickled appearance. Breakdown of waste will occur after it has been transferred to the soil.

This is what it should look like before you bury the waste.

Bucket2

Why should I bury the Bokashi Compost in the soil?

Burying Bokashi Compost in the garden will supply the plants with a nourishing food source and condition your soil with enriching microbes. EM Bokashi has traditionally been used to increase the microbial diversity and activity in soils and to supply nutrients to plants.

To bury the Bokashi Compost:

  • Dig a hole, add your fermented Bokashi Compost, mix with some soil and cover.

BokashiCompost

  • If you do not have a lot of garden space you can create a Bokashi Compost Heap, by burying a large bottomless bucket with lid (30 litres and above is ideal). Mix in a bit of garden soil each time you add more Bokashi Compost to the bucket.

Or, you can use your Bokashi Compost in planter boxes, tubs or pots by placing it directly into the container for further fermentation and covering with soil. Complete breakdown of waste will occur a few weeks after it has been transferred to the soil. Fill 1/3 of the container with potting mix (new or used) then add the Bokashi Compost and mix with soil. Fill the remaining 1/3 of the container with potting mix and cover with a plastic bag to maintain anaerobic conditions. Wait two weeks before planting you favorite veggies or flowers, or transfer potting mix into smaller pots for planting.

Why is it so good for my garden?

Burying Bokashi Compost in the garden will supply the plants with a nourishing food source and condition your soil with enriching microbes.

The Bokashi Bin/Bucket composting system significantly accelerates the composting process of organic waste. Bokashi Compost is acidic when first dug in, but neutralizes after 7-10 days, so be sure plant roots do not come directly into contact with the compost, as it may burn the roots, particularly if the plants are very young.

Fresh compost can be stressful to new plants so it is best to wait two weeks before planting your favorite veggies, flowers etc.

What can I use the BOKASHI JUICE for?

The amount and colour of the Bokashi Juice produced will depend on the type of foods you have put into The Bokashi Bin/Bucket. Fruit and vegetables tend to release more liquid than other foods. Do not be concerned if little or no Bokashi Juice is produced.

Gardening:

Bokashi Juice can be diluted with water and makes a fantastic liquid fertiliser for the veggie, garden plants and pot plants. To fertilise an existing garden or pot plants use 1 teaspoon to 2-3 litres of water and apply directly to the soil. For trees and shrubs use 2 teaspoons to 2-3 litres of water. Do not apply directly to foliage. It is rich in nutrients and beneficial organisms that improve the health of the soil.

Cleaning:

It can be poured down kitchen and bathroom drains, toilets, and it is safe to use in septic tanks.

The microorganisms also break down slime and other organic matter in drains, helping to keep them clear and free of blockages, prevents algae build-up and controls odours.

Finally, when used for drains, it will help to clean up our water ways by competing with harmful bacteria.BokashiJuice

Bokashi Juice cannot be stored and must be used within 24 hours after draining from the bucket.

What (if any) problems can occur with a Bokashi Bin/Bucket and what can be done to remedy them?

A successful Bokashi Bucket composting process has the following indicators:

The smell: Well fermented Bokashi Compost should have a smell similar to that of pickles or cider vinegar.

Appearance: Occasionally, particularly for longer fermentation periods a white cotton-like fungi growth may appear on the surface. This shows that a good fermentation process has occurred.

Unsuccessful composting can be detected by the following results:

The smell: A strong rancid or rotten smell

Appearance: The presence of black or blue green fungi indicates that contamination has occurred and the process has putrefied.

What are the causes of unsuccessful Bokashi Composting?

If you have noticed any of the above signs it is probably the result of:

Not adding enough EM Bokashi

Not replacing The Bokashi Bucket lid tightly after every use

Not draining the Bokashi Juice frequently from the bucket

Prolonged and direct exposure to sunlight or extreme temperatures

What should I do with the contents of the bin if this should happen?

If your fermentation process has struck problems, find a spot in the garden, away from plants and dig a 30-35 cm hole. Place 3 handfuls of Bokashi into the bottom of the hole tip the poor batch of compost into the hole and mix with some soil. Sprinkle another 3 handfuls of Bokashi onto the poor compost and fill the hole in with soil.

USEFUL TIPS:

  • You can never add too much EM Bokashi; better too much than too little to ensure complete fermentation and good smelling compost.
  • Only add fresh food waste to The Bokashi Bin/Bucket, never rotten or mouldy wastes.
  • Break or chop large waste into smaller pieces.
  • Remember – the less air that comes in contact with the compost the better so compact the waste by pressing it down to remove air. A plastic bag can be used for this.
  • Always close the lid tightly and drain the Bokashi Juice that accumulates at the bottom frequently.
  • Do not add water, excessive amounts of fluids or place the bucket in the sun.
  • Wash the bucket after each use.
  • The Bokashi Bin/Bucket has been designed to be used with EM Bokashi. Used with other products may result in putrefaction rather than fermentation of food wastes.

This is a new approach to composting. Don’t be afraid to experiment with it until you get a feel for how this process can work for you.

So! As a Bokashi Bin/Bucke system is extremely affordable (R399 and upwards) why don’t YOU make a difference to your waste disposal and be rewarded with a tangible byproduct? If worms freak you out, here is a fantastic alternative to dealing with your scraps and organic kitchen waste. I know mine is on the way and it will be such a delight to know that I say “born up a tree” (bon appétit) with absolute sincerity knowing that anything left over will never be wasted with my new Bokashi Bin.

“We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children”

BOKASHI

Bokashi Bins are perfect composting companions for any household. A wormery takes green household kitchen waste, and a Bokashi Bin allows home owners, restaurants, B&B’s and hotels to dispose of the waste that wormeries cannot process efficiently such as meat, dairy, breads, citrus, acidic fruits and foods.

In order to educate the general public on the benefits of establishing a self sustaining wormery, Worms 4 Africa conducts Saturday morning demonstration seminsars and offers sound advice on the care and management of earthworms ensuring their optimal performance.

Our vision is to inspire and educate people to reduce their carbon footprint by using worms, wormeries and Bokashi composters and to highlight the incredible benefits that the by-products of these systems have for one’s garden plants and home cleaning (drains and wastewater systems), thus saving money and the planet!

Our mission is to change one person’s mindset at a time to recycle degradable matter by using earthworms and creating sustainable resources that will support our earth to produce viable, nutritious and organic food to feed our families for optimal health and wellbeing thus making the planet inheritable to our children’s, children’s grandchildren.

Feel free to contact us to discuss your wormery requirements, and for regular worm/Bokashi info you can subscribe to our blog where we will support you with regular information on these subjects.

PURCHASING A EARTHWORM SYSTEM

First congratulations on purchasing your worm system/farm! You are well on your way on reducing your carbon foot print.

If your worms are consuming food, and no unpleasant odors are
produced, these are good signs that everything is okay!

Don't worry; I am sure you will get your worm wee soon enough! They take a while to settle, so be patient.

As you start a new worm farm system, depending on what food
materials you have and in what quantity, you will have different
moisture levels. Although it is called worm wee, the liquid is
actually mostly comprised of the moisture from the food you throw
in, and not the worm wee itself.

The new carbon source that you add in (the shredded paper/ newspaper /shredded cardboard/ coir bedding etc) are very moisture absorbent, and will be the first to absorb any moisture produced before it has that chance to drip into your collection tray. As more food waste is added, and more moisture is produced, it will no doubt start dripping through into your collection tray.

When you do start collecting your worm wee, (or more accurately
called worm leachate) do take care on using it for plant
watering. Since the liquid will have passed through the worm
compost, bringing many nutrients with it, the liquid will also
have passed through rotting food material and may carry some
unwanted things in there. Oxygenating it with an aquarium pump or
simply pour it from a watering can to another container which is inexpensive and can solve most of the problems with
anaerobic bacteria (bad bacteria), but do rely on your nose to
detect the smell.

Generally, if it smells bad, it is bad! Throw it away!!! Use the liquid as soon as you can or store it in a dark place out of light as it destroys microbes and nutrients when it is left in sunlight/light.

If after a while you still don't get any liquid, I will suggest
monitoring the moisture levels of your worm farm system as it may
be too dry, and a dry environment can easily kill off your worms!
How do you know if your worm farm is the right moisture levels?

Pick up some of the produced worm cast or soil and squeeze it
together. The soil should be able to clump together with drips of
water dripping out. If it does not, then it may be necessary to
re-wet the worm farm by adding some shredded paper/newspaper/cardboard soaked in water and tuck it into the compost.

Be careful not too add too much water which will over log it,
since this will reduce oxygen from getting into the lower levels
of the worm far system.

Mix, mix, mix the contents of your system as this aerates the compost and makes it easier for earthworms to move through it. Don't just put stuff in so that it ends up in layers and you will have problems with an upward migrating unit as Earthworms wont migrate if there is still food in the "working" tray.

Please send me some feed back on what l have posted here and if you have any questions l will gladly answer them for you.

Lynne